.svg)
For decades, the landscape of "Indian" restaurants across the UK was, in many cases, a misnomer, with countless establishments actually founded and run by Bangladeshi immigrants. Food writer and author Shahnaz Ahsan is shedding light on this untold culinary story, revealing the distinct nuances of Bangladeshi cuisine and its unique British-Bangladeshi evolution. Her new memoir and recipe book, The Jackfruit Chronicles, delves into her family’s journey and the profound role food plays in their British-Bangladeshi identity.
"Many 'Indian' restaurants in the early 1970s were actually set up by Bangladeshis," explains Ahsan, whose own grandparents emigrated to Manchester in 1956 and established one such eatery. These pioneers often focused on more familiar Indian dishes to cater to the prevailing white British clientele. This historical context, coupled with Bangladesh's independence from Pakistan only in 1971, has contributed to a general lack of understanding in the UK about what authentic Bangladeshi cuisine truly entails.
Unpacking the Flavors: What Defines Bangladeshi Food?
Ahsan, 37, born and raised in Yorkshire, highlights the core elements of traditional Bengali cooking. "We have lots of lentils, lots of fish, and lots of vegetables – they are the key core trio of Bengali cuisine," she states. However, for a truly distinctive Bangladeshi dish, one must turn to bhortas. "It's a mash, and you can make this mash out of anything – potatoes, fish – it's the style of cooking that is really distinctively Bengali." Traditionally, much of this cooking involved open flames, imparting a smoky flavor that is difficult to replicate in modern UK kitchens.
When describing the flavor profile, Ahsan likens it to "a cross between generic Indian and generic Thai," emphasizing the vast regional variations within both. Key flavors include the lightness of citrus, the heat from green chilli, and a prevalent use of smoky red chilli. Turmeric is a near-universal ingredient, along with mustard oil, mustard seeds, and lime.
Everyday Delights and the Significance of Jackfruit
Common home-cooked dishes in Bangladesh often feature stir-fried vegetables, greens, or a quintessential chicken curry. Ahsan fondly recalls "aloo chicken" (chicken and potato curry) as a beloved midweek meal, asserting, "Every child thinks that their mother's version is the best thing ever." Fish curry, typically prepared in a thin sauce with tomatoes and green chilli, is another staple, always served with hot white rice.
The jackfruit, Bangladesh's national vegetable, holds immense cultural significance. While it has gained recent popularity in Western vegetarian cuisine, Ahsan grew up with it. "Bangladeshi families will always buy a huge jackfruit to welcome anybody who’s coming home after they’ve been travelling – it’s really a cultural icon." Traditionally, ripe jackfruit is enjoyed as a sweet fruit, often with sticky rice and cream or yogurt for a delicious dessert. Unripe, tinned jackfruit, readily available in supermarkets, is perfect for cooking, with Ahsan recommending jackfruit koftas as an accessible entry point.
The Unique Identity of British-Bangladeshi Cuisine
The British-Bangladeshi crossover cuisine has developed its own distinct identity, born from necessity and ingenuity. Early immigrants like Ahsan's grandparents adapted traditional recipes using ingredients accessible in the UK in the late 1950s, such as tinned fish. "As a result of that, lots of British-Bangladeshi make traditional fish dishes out of tinned fish, like the tuna fish cakes," she explains. This adaptation has become a staple, with every British-Bangladeshi family having their own version. Similarly, crispy chilli fried sardines or mackerel, often made with tinned fish, are popular.
A quintessential British-Bangladeshi dish that exemplifies this fusion is the whole roast chicken flavored with Bengali spices. "We’d use turmeric, chilli, ground coriander, ground cumin, yoghurt, garlic, ginger, and lemon juice, and marinate the chicken in that with the skin off," Ahsan describes. This dish is often served for Sunday lunch or during Christmas, reflecting a beautiful blend of cultural traditions.
Food as the Heartbeat of Bengali Culture
Food is "hugely" important to Bengali culture, extending beyond just the dishes themselves to the ritual of eating. "We have like five meals a day. When people come, you always serve something. You serve tea with some kind of crunchy snack or some sweet dish – there’s huge amounts of hospitality and sharing," Ahsan emphasizes.
The jackfruit itself symbolizes this custom. "They’re absolutely enormous, you would never buy it for yourself, by the very nature of it, you buy to share with family or friends or neighbors." The early pioneers, facing challenges in sourcing ingredients from back home, would often bring items in their suitcases and generously share them, further cementing food's role as a cornerstone of community and hospitality.
Ahsan's work, including The Jackfruit Chronicles, serves as a vital bridge, educating and celebrating the rich, complex, and often overlooked culinary heritage of the British-Bangladeshi community.
